Category Archives: The First Lady Dress

So a long while ago, I declared that I was going to have this 1890s bodice close with a hidden layer underneath, and the fashion layer on top. So here’s how I did this! All the back pieces of the … Continue reading →

Nothing super exciting happening on my First Lady top. All pretty standard stuff. Baste fabric to lining, sew the pieces together, add some boning channels, use a bias facing on the top and bottom, sew on a bunch of trim. … Continue reading →

So a bunch of these extant bodices have some weird zig-zag thing which is holding on the boning channels. Closeups: WTF is happening here? The only way I know how to make a zigzag is with a catch stitch. It’s … Continue reading →

While I work on the pattern for my bodice, I’m also thinking about the construction. I am not an expert on 1890s clothing, so I am turning to my friends, Pictures of Extant Clothing. A million thanks to Lilyluna Standin … Continue reading →

  So last time, I had all that excess droopiness around the shoulder area. I tried pinching out about a half inch all across the back. Woohoo that looks really good! I was so happy about this; I felt like … Continue reading →

About 6 months ago, I made the skirt of this dress originally owned by Francis Cleveland. Since Danse Libre will be performing 1890s dances with the Peninsula symphony, a daywear look with a blouse wasn’t going to cut it this year. … Continue reading →

The Challenge: The Politics of Fashion (Historical Fortnightly #11). I chose to make the skirt (bodice coming later) based on a skirt owned by Frances Cleveland, who was First Lady of the United States. As the married President Grover Cleveland … Continue reading →

Math! I know, again? And so soon after the last science lesson. So, this skirt has this big cutout to show an underskirt trimmed with lace. Time to figure out how big it should be. I used the INCREDIBLY SCIENTIFIC … Continue reading →

So this dress has the overskirt cut away to show an underskirt with some lace: No idea whether this was two separate skirts. I had always planned to line my skirt, but in order to avoid having to cut out … Continue reading →

Trying to figure out where to place the trim and the cutout on the skirt: