I was hoping to have these done at the end of February (ok and technically they aren’t lined yet), but I’m calling these DONE (for now…). Cause a robe a la francaise isn’t going to drape itself.
Pictures, with my oh-so-period tank top and pj pants:
This really shows the issues I have with my dress form. These stays lace closed in front easily on me, but it was a strain to get it this closed on the form. The bosom is incredibly low, and squishes in-not-up. Worst part is the shoulders/armscye – these stays are cutting right up into the arm stub, whereas on me the stays come up to a normal place under my arm. When draping, I have to practically go over the sticking-out-arm piece, because ending underneath would end up incredibly low on me (like showing untasteful sideboob low). But sewing new things is always more fun than figuring out what I need to do to fix the form (which would probably involve surgery with knife. On the form, not me.)
And hey, that HSM is happening! I debated entering these as a very late entry for blue, but in my head they have always been a stash item. The vast majority of the stays did come from my stash, but I had to buy boning and leather for binding. I do think it fits in the spirit of destashing, so entering it in that challenge.
The Challenge: HSM #3, Stashbusting
Fabric: ~1 yard aqua linen (from NY Fashion center Fabrics, colorway Parnassus. This linen is so worth the price, it is the softest, non-slubbiest linen I have ever used), 1.5 yards linen canvas for lining (from William Booth Draper)
Pattern: From La Couturière Parisienne stays pattern
Notions: German plastic boning, silk buttonhole twist thread, chamois leather
How historically accurate is it? I never know how to answer this. Here are some factors:
– Construction techniques overall can be found in extant stays (whipping pieces together, covering seams, hand sewn eyelets, tying straps on)
– I decided german plastic boning was the closest substitute for baleen after reading Kendra’s discussion of the matter.
– Linen stays would have likely been sewn with linen thread of varying weights. I used standard polyester for all the channels. I used green silk buttonhole twist for the eyelets because it was the right weight, but the thread color and silk fiber are not correct for linen stays.
– Very few extant examples of 1760s/70s stays lacing front and back, but I value being able to dress myself.
– It was more common for colored stays to be earlier in the period, with a silk outer layer, and fully boned. Half-boned linen stays seem much more likely to be some shade of brown, rather than a color.
– In terms of persona – a lady would never make her own stays. She would have them custom made for her by a stay-maker. So making them myself is perhaps the least accurate part.
Hours to complete: So many. At least 20?
First worn: Not yet! Will be worn under a robe a la francaise in a costume contest in April.
Total cost: Not counting the stashed materials, ~2o dollars for 12.5m of boning (I bought 25m @$40, but estimate I only used half), $7.50 for chamois leather (again, this is half the price and amount of what I bought). Adding the stashed materials, it would be another $20 for a yard of linen, $15 for linen canvas, $8 for silk thread.
Looks like there will be some major “shelfing” going on with the corset ??
Yes, period correct shelfing at that
This looks awesome!
Those look fantastic, and you made them so fast! I am jealous. 🙂 I’m still working on eyelets on mine.
For dress form woes, I think I’ve seen tutorials out there for actually carving the foam to be a better shape…might be worth a try for better draping base?
Thanks! Although I question how fast they actually were, given that my first post on these was a full month before this one, and my posts are generally a few days behind where I am :p Can’t wait to see how yours turn out!
You are right, I do need to do some surgery on the form with a knife. Alas doing actual sewing always sounds like more fun than dress-form-surgery, so I keep putting it off (been about 2 years now…)
I hear you there…I have a form that I was going to pad out to be more squishable for draping over corsets. That was…um, ten years ago, that I got it? Granted, I’ve changed shape a couple times since then, but still! Shame on me. 😛
My stays are progressing in between stuff for my husband and Real Life things. But they’re getting someplace, just…slowly!
Pingback: Lady Moiraine’s Sacque Gown | Avant Garbe
Pingback: The Sisterhood Of The World Bloggers Award | Avant Garbe
Pingback: Augusta Stays by Scroop Patterns and Virgils Fine Goods | Avant Garbe